Freshly opened (August 2010) the spears are already waving for Shaka Zulu and its South African style food under the control of Executive Chef Barry Vera at Stables Market in Camden. The whole scale of the place is cosmic, from the open plan kitchen to the exclusive chef's tables, not forgetting to mention the world-class chefs.

From the moment of entry it's clear that Shaka Zulu Camden is a place with, well no perhaps I'd better not say that. Let's just say it's already on the way to becoming iconic. The culture of the Zulu world is assembled round the walls, culminating in the Warrior Wall where King Shaka himself stands amongst a group of warriors sculpted into incredible 60ft statues.

A Seafood and Oyster bar reinvents a time honoured custom and the Braai Grill Restaurant provides the setting for some very serious indulgence. Much of the music follows the African sound and music and dancing comes to a reluctant end at 2am.

The Braai is where the theatre of food comes to life with a range of starters that includes Ethiopian braised chicken in berberé, a spicy red pepper sauce; mussel chowder made with corn and saffron, or Prestige oysters with shallot vinegar, tabasco and lemon. A Cape Malay chicken curry is based on Malaysian cooking with the best of South African food and a generous helping of Indian flavour and style. This is curry with horns. Unlike the carpaccio of ostrich with goat's cheese, peppadew and horseradish.

The virtues of slow cooking are still not fully appreciated, but the spit roasted dorper lamb is marinated before being roasted for 7 hours, then served with a spicy African vegetable relish, chakalaka by name. Fruits de mer never fail to ring the bell and come in various sizes for companionable eating as up to six people pick on lobster, langoustines, fresh prawns, oysters, crevette grises, winkles and mussels. Rather more individual is the half poached native lobster with harissa mayonnaise, lemon and watercress.

Looking for something different? It's not difficult at Braai, and the Shaka Zulu sample board goes overboard with springbok, ostrich, kudu, boerewors with monkey gland sauce, mint and peanut chutney and chakalaka. Moving rather nearer home we find ourselves staring Royal Sandringham in the face as we tackle fillet or a sirloin steak from the Red Poll beef that this old estate breed produces. Its distinctive flavour is superb.

Even the modest sausage is not safe from this invasion of fine food, so welcome the grilled boerewors variety, full of coarsely ground beef and lamb with toasted coriander, pepper, nutmeg and cloves and allspice, served with mint and peanut chutney. After this even a Speyside Highland Rib served on the bone comes as a bit of an anticlimax until those pickled girolles and garlic with red wine sauce start tickling the tasties.

Even the side dishes at this estimable restaurant and club are not without special note. It would never have occurred to me for instance to bring together bell pepper, tomato and curry with cabbage, thereby creating Zulu curry. But, as they say, it works. Boy, does it work.

Shaka Zulu sets new standards at a time when we need them, and it's difficult to avoid the thought we deserve somewhere like this to shake off the last few years and get us through the next few. If that is taken as a political statement you are of course quite wrong. But you could start by giving yourself membership of the King's Club. Don't wait for Christmas.

There's a whole lot more to know about Shaka Zulu, and their Website will do so much, but there's nothing like the real experience.