It would be quite unjust to say that "tapas come to Edinburgh", but it would be fair to observe that they have not, until now, arrived in such profusion, elegance and single-mindedness. Described by the high-powered owners and management team as "the modern way of eating", some 80 dishes are drawn from an international sweep that embraces Europe, Asia, Middle East, Africa, Australia and the Americas.

Within a décor that is truly chic, Shaws Bistro is located in the heart of historic Edinburgh, close to St Giles Cathedral, and takes its name from a 17th century fish porter named Shaw who worked in Old Fishmarket Close itself.

Any problems likely to arise from what might be termed 'cuisinal differences' do not have a fishporter's ghost of a chance of mutating with a menu like Shaws' around. The menu changes daily, so no chance of boredom should you become a regular addict. How often have you looked at the starters on a menu and thought you could comfortably accommodate your appetite within their breadth? This is your chance to do it in style. But leave space for the kangaroo chargrilled fillet with vintage port - a fresh take on New and Old Worlds?

Mussels from the Shetland Isles, Thai salmon and prawn fishcakes, ostrich steak, salata Moshakai from the Middle East, duck pancakes, escargot, crocodile steak, Creole crabs, calamari, Teryaki beef, all with their attendant sauces and dips, the list is endless and gloriously satisfying. The only major concession to Britishness is centred on the desserts where some familiar dishes make their appearance, including the much-loved sticky toffee pudding.

A mainly New World wine list seems appropriate for the food and there are some great beers and cocktails. As an antidote to the more formal dining for which people like James Thompson have made Edinburgh an enviable landmark, Shaws is a real winner.