Signor Sassi, in London's fashionable Knightsbridge, is one of a dying breed, as once upon a time London had masses of cheerful, bright, friendly Italian trattorias, where you could always be assured of a warm welcome, assiduous service and interesting food. There was the Mario and Franco chain that set the trend, and San Frediano in the Fulham Road, where the inimitable Franco, the finest host in London, who had an encyclopaedic knowledge of names and faces, ran a superb place.

Sadly there seem to be few good ones left, however, that was until a rejuvenated Signor Sassi came into the picture; for many years the former owner Mario held sway there, until he sold it to Carlo Distefano, who has transformed its rather tired image and décor, improved the food, with a fish selection that would put many a seafood restaurant to shame, and generally brought back some of the charm that was missing.

Managers Donato and Jo greet their many regular customers in a truly Italian manner, immediately you know that you are going to enjoy the whole experience, as it runs the gamut, with the occasional singing waiter, and the fake cappuccino coffee cup trick, through to an outstanding menu with some old favourites and many more modern touches.

There is a £2 cover charge, this may seem steep, but you will change your mind when you see what you get for it, a bowl of wonderful olives, a selection of breads, bruschetta with tomatoes and shavings of a good quality parmesan cheese, almost a meal in itself.

A starter of cured slice of beef may catch your attention, though seared tuna with sautéed fennel and citrus dressing runs it close as an alternative, it is finely chopped, and beautifully presented with rocket and topped with shavings of parmesan, olive oil and lemon juice. Follow on with a baked rack of lamb with Chianti and mixed herbs or whole lobster with brandy, béchamel, shallots, English mustard and cheese.

The food is presented with style and standards are high throughout for a neighbourhood Italian restaurant, while the wine list is enterprising, fairly short, but with a good choice between £20 and £30 a bottle, including most of the usual culprits, Verdicchio, Orvieto, Pinot Grigio, Frascati in the whites and a decent selection of reds also.

So there is much to recommend about Signor Sassi, if you want to enjoy a lively evening out with genuine Italian hospitality at its best, combined with cooking of real quality, and leave feeling pampered and full, it should be the perfect choice for you. Their Website should inspire you to venture in their direction.