Silver Darling

Seafood it may be but it certainly has a French flavour to it, hardly surprising should you meet the owner, Didier Dejean. Named after the lowly herring it is possible to sit in the upper levels of the largely glass restaurant, which has been cunningly hoisted aloft the former granite Customs House, and enjoy sweeping views over the maritime activity of Aberdeen Harbour and approaches.

But it is, of course, the food, with a heavy input from the dwindling local stocks that commands the real attention. It is difficult to find even the faintest word of criticism. The same high level of attention seems to have been applied to whatever dish is chosen, be it the delightful six oyster starter, three raw, three grilled with the most wonderful accompaniments or the gently poached Shetland halibut in a shellfish broth.

House wines at £14.50 and a wine list composed of a careful and distinctive selection of New World and old, including a useful collection of half bottles.