Silver Room at hush, The

The menu may be French in an inspirational, but it is a splendid example of how to use the ingredients of the country to best advantage, revolving on the timeless cycle of the seasons, identifying the best with unerring accuracy.

Starters may include English asparagus with Hollandaise or vinaigrette, fillet of beef carpaccio with confit of rabbit, stracci di pasta and sauce Gribiche, a Colchester crab and samphire soup with caviar and chervil Chantilly, or some of that everlasting favourite, oak smoked salmon with shallots, capers and granary bread.

The theme is maintained through a rousing selection of main courses, starting with a whole Dover sole chargrilled or meunière. The return of chateaubriand for two (did it ever go away some may say) is partnered with truffled potatoes and Madeira sauce, but the roast pavé of lamb and slow roast shoulder from Aberdeenshire with glazed shallots and cauliflower purée is a great treat for those who like the particular flavour of lamb from the rich, ancient pastures of Scotland.

Grilled halibut is imaginatively linked with asparagus spears, oyster beignet and sauce vierge, and risotto, a dish that can so easily turn out to be disappointing is combined with perigord truffle and Parmigiano Reggiano and wild rocket to make a reliable and well flavoured version of this old favourite.

A panache of vegetables makes for interesting eating, French beans are served with lemon butter bringing out all the best in this wonderful vegetable, and the spinach is also buttered for better effect.

Amongst the splendid array of desserts I would particularly commend the fresh seasonal fruits with elderflower ice cream, a real symphony of tastes that rounds off many a good meal with élan.

Le Club is ideally located for Those Who Lunch in the West End and a two-course and three-course lunch are offered at £23.50 and £26.50 respectively. Expect to find tomato gazpachio à l'andalouse with anchovies on garlic toast, or native oysters with truffled scrambled eggs, Sevruga caviar and champagne granite amongst the starters.

Four main courses are offered with roulade of duxelle stuffed poussin with rosemary fondant, glazed baby leeks and jus rosti, or a mille feuille of roast rabbit and bacon with marinated artichoke hearts and Devon cider emulsion.

Desserts of hot chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream or glazed lemon tart make some work during the afternoon a not unreasonable proposition, but of course it's a very different matter when you come to the wine list which is without doubt one of the best of several reasons for taking your custom to this very commendable restaurant.

Their Website is part of the hush site and is explicit and easy to use, with the sort of information you need rather than what management might like you to hear, a refreshing approach indeed.