Simpson's-in-the-Strand, The Grand Divan

This bastion of Englishness since the early 19th century continues to wend its way seamlessly through the modern age of changing tastes in London restaurants and particularly the style of food that they offer.

A world apart from nouvelle cuisine and fusion food, Simpson's is still finding there are new generations that appreciate their qualities of stability and reliability in serving genuine, fine English food; its original aim which it continues to espouse with quiet confidence and infinite élan.

Throughout a long and illustrious past, the building housing Simpson's has undergone a series of transformations, adapting to changing tastes and styles. It began life in 1828 as a coffee house, The Grand Cigar Divan, introduced chess with the coffee, and finally evolved into a restaurant in 1848 when John Simpson joined the company.

It was acquired by the Savoy Group in 1898, though it wasn't until May 1904 that the current building re-opened, following extensive rebuilding due to the widening of the Strand. The Grand Divan is the ground floor eating area, with a classically British décor that is uniquely its own. Should anyone be looking for an expression of 'Britishness' let them seek no further.

As a result, for many The Grand Divan will always be home. Now with newly cleaned crystal chandeliers and French-polished panelled walls, the restaurant has serenely passed into another phase of its faultless existence, continuing to offer its ever-popular roasts carved from the trolley - don't forget to tip the carver - with daily, changing specials. The most requested menu items remain potted shrimps, lobster soup and their renowned steak and kidney pudding, which is now served every day, not just Tuesdays as used to be the case.

It is probably one of the few restaurants in London that serves really good game, in the traditional English way, like grouse, in season of course, with game chips and bread sauce; while everyone's dessert favourite seems to be their famous treacle sponge pudding. It would be extremely odd if Welsh rarebit was not served as a savoury. Amongst their signature dishes look for the beautifully smoked Scottish salmon or roast rib of 28-day aged Scottish beef surrounded by roast potatoes, Savoy cabbage, Yorkshire pudding and horseradish.

Its range has even been extended more recently to breakfast, which many find the most tempting and interesting in London, as well as representing rather better value that in most major London hotels. The Ten Deadly Sins menu leaves nothing to chance except the possibility of being able to deal in a seemly manner with lunch.

The wine list pays due homage to France, with a selection of ten classic champagnes, followed in all the major classifications by other Europeans, then rest of the world.

Possibly the most significant concession made by Simpsons to the passage of time is in their pricing, which to be fair used to be rather breathtaking. Let's just say that prices now are competitive both in the glass and on the plate. And the wonderful atmosphere is absolutely free.

Preferred dress code is smart casual. More information, including sample menus, is available on their Website.