Sophia's Restaurant

Closed for the 2008 season and will open again at Easter.

Whilst admitting that an unexpected night in Penzance, due to the helicopter service to Tresco being grounded, would not be high on my list of priorities, it turned out to be not without its attractions, foremost amongst which was the discovery on the seafront of Sophia's. After all one has to eat.

So escaping from the seething mass of human frustration that was the heliport, we strolled along the Promenade and there it was, tastefully painted and lit, looking thoroughly welcoming - until we encountered the fact that we had no reservation. To need a booking on a gruesome autumnal Tuesday evening suggested we might be on to something good, so we persisted and finally beat the system. And wasn't it worth it.

A plate of olives appeared, napkins were spread and a reassuringly brief but punchy menu laid before us. Sophia's lays claim to excellent Cornish cooking, with Newlyn fish and local farm meat well to the fore. Small plates included plaice goujons with a chunky tartare sauce, their own smooth pate with organic tomato chutney, and local crab salad with smoked paprika mayo.

Main courses of local smoked haddock on mash with poached egg and a creamy wholegrain mustard sauce was confident, well presented, just perfect. The St Buryan pork filet was served with Lyonnaise potatoes, local cider and apple sauce and an ample helping of convincingly fresh vegetables.

Had we been up for puddings we could have had raspberries soaked in Cornish mead trifle, Eton mess, or an orange and Grand Marnier crème brûlée. Coffee was superb.

The value for money stretched to the wine list, with decent Muscadet at £15.50 a bottle, house wine at £11.50, and Cornish white from the Carmel Valley.

I would say that Penzance is possibly over blessed with restaurants, but I would hazard a guess that few of them are in Sophia's class.