This well-established favourite in the heart of Leeds continues to pull the crowds and hardly surprisingly, since it goes on providing what people want at prices which they can afford. There might be less wringing of hands if more restaurant owners heeded this simple recipe. o unnecessary expense has been squandered on fripperies, simplicity rules and the service can hardly be faulted.

A sensible menu satisfies even the most pernickety with its perceptive choices and the early-bird evening option is deservedly popular. Start with the deep-fried Brie with pepper and mango sauce, followed by roast best-end of lamb with Mediterranean-style potatoes and rosemary jus. Try not to miss the white chocolate pate. A complex and rewarding wine list features some really interesting finds.