Spice Box, The

Strategically located on a corner site with a nice period shop front painted a cool NT green, the Spice Box commands immediate respect. Inside the story is even better and Daniel Parry concentrates on responding to a menu which will ensure that the restaurant becomes a leading culinary beacon in this well-to-do part of Yorkshire.

Front of house is Andrew Mead who sees to it that the welcome is sustained and offers advice when needed on starters that may consist of roast rabbit meatballs with vanilla bean risotto and sherry vinaigrette, or potato and clam chowder with smoked bacon, sweetcorn and parsley. Main courses are well varied and baked fillet of trout with cauliflower cream, lemon, capers and almonds or braised saddleback pork belly with black pudding, pork faggot and cider potato are not unknown contestants.

A warm treacle tart with clotted cream ice cream, prunes and Armagnac is a popular dish but where Spice Box excels is in its range of rare English cheeses. Katy's white lavender, Byland blue, Langthorne's smoked buffalo and the little known King Richard 3rd all feature regularly, but the queen of them all is Mrs Bell's blue, voted Cheese of the Year by BBC Good Food magazine and a gold medal in the World Cheese Awards. The wine list may be relatively small but it is certainly well chosen and you are unlikely to grieve for lack of choice. Occasionally some striking bin ends are waiting to be snapped up.

Spice Box is an admirable place, well-deserving of the support it receives and, in the view of many destined for a long and satisfying life.