Spice Cube, The

In terms of an overall impression, almost all restaurants tend to slot into a number of groups, and Indian restaurants are no exception. So it is particularly impressive when an Indian restaurant sets new standards in a switched on hot-bed of gastronomic fever such as Newcastle on Tyne, where quality eating out is enjoying a surge that exceeds even the greatly increased national interest.

As owner, Jalf Ali himself says, - The Spice Cube never looked like a typical curry house and that's something our customers responded to from day one!  This starts with the décor, which is modern chic, light and airy, with splashes of restrained colour, giving an aura of relaxed sparkle. Indian culture is on the march in these vibrant surroundings.

So to the menus, starting with a real innovation, Indian eating for children, with a selection of simple dishes with names that will appeal to the little dears, though not too sure about 'pee pee pilaw', could lead to something greater, but let it pass. Samosa, chicken tikka 'chick chick' kurma and 'lush' lamb bhuna, with 'yummie' egg pilaw will all have them rushing off to the nearest Indian regular as clockwork by the time they are into their teens. But for those few who are resistant, they wisely slip in chicken nuggets and fried scampi, just in case.

Whilst I am reliably told that India has its own ladies-who-lunch culture, lunch here in this frenzied age, needs to be almost an on the hoof event, but the next best thing is a two course meal with lighter than usual portions chosen from a menu of about 12 dishes, for nearer £5 than £10. Light lunches of salads and soups from 5 dishes at £2.50, or burgers and naanwiches includes a chicken tikka wrap, minced lamb murtabak or masala chicken burger served with salad and homemade chips.

As with any self-respecting restaurant it is usually the à la carte menu that carries the reputation of the entire team, which here is headed by Dinesh Rawat, born in Delhi, well travelled since, and trained with Vivek Singh, now chef at the Cinnamon Club, Westminster's holy grail when it comes to Indian cuisine.

Twelve or so starters include Old Delhi-style lamb chops with fresh red chilli, Tandoori citrus prawns, and chargrilled boned shoulder of lamb, finely ground with root spices, enveloped with red onion, sweet peppers and mint. But it is amongst the modern main courses that the skills really begin to show, with duck salan, pan seared duck breast in ginger and tamarind sauce on a spinach potato cake, or meen moilee, coconut fish curry from Kerala, farm raised salmon braised in mustard, ginger and curry leaf flavoured coconut broth.

Amongst the traditional dishes are that all time favourite rogan josh, diced lamb cooked with Kashmiri chillies, fennel and dry ginger powder, murgh tikka Jalfrezi, a chicken tikka with onions, peppers and chillies tossed in a spicy tomato and onion gravy with an abundance of green coriander, a kebab platter with lamb chop, vegetable samosa, salmon tikka and murgh tikka. Amongst the vegetable options are methi matar Malai, a creamy melange of fresh fenugreek, spinach and green peas.

The Early Evening menu, with 2 courses at £10.50, and 3 for a mere £12.50 offers well-chosen dishes at a time of day when an evening out lies ahead, or for healthy eaters following the 'nothing-after-eight' guideline!

Spice Cube's wine list goes its own way, providing a home for many of the world's unusual wines, with Malbec from South America, Pinot Bianco from Northern Italy, Tintoretto from Spain and plenty of choices amongst cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay. Read much, much more on their Website , particularly arrangements for parties and special occasions.