Spyglass Inn, The

Most of us going to renew familiarity with the sea cherish notions of little inns by the waterside, with sun-soaked courtyards looking out over miles of impenetrable ocean, a suggestion of smuggling, seafood, and local ales that would blister the paint off your gunwales - if you have any.

Welcome to The Spyglass Inn at Ventnor which has all these things in abundance. Amidst a wealth of seagoing memorabilia browse over a menu that invokes all that is best from the surrounding waters and fields.

The crabs and lobsters that inhabit the waters over which your gaze is drawn must have access to some hidden ingredient - great big fellows that arrive on a plate scarcely big enough to accommodate their weight. Then there's the house's fisherman's pie, greenlip mussels, well supported by juicy steaks, local sausages, spiced up chicken, and cottage pie.

The specials board could include Henry's seafood stew, the Spyglass seafood chowder, home made curries with strength to order, and very locally caught seafood beautifully presented with imagination and skill. Children will perk up at the sight of chicken teddies and fish fingers, and vegetarians can enjoy vegetable moussaka or spinach and ricotta cheese cannelloni with fresh salad and chips. Finish the meal with a rumbustious hot treacle sponge pudding.

Dogs who behave, and muddy boots are taken in their stride by the owners, who also insist on mutual respect all round. A wine list, heavy with New World contributions takes due heed of the menu.

Asked to name my five favourite nautical eating spots in Britain, The Spyglass would not escape inclusion. Oh, yes - and the ale - try the Fuggle Dee Dum, brewed at Goddards in nearby Rye.