There is more than a slight association between St Ives and Bohemia, thanks mainly to artistic influences, and now it is extending its influence through the food chain. Chef Proprietor Robert Armstrong serves mainly local food with inspired twists and additions that really pull in the gourmets.

The surroundings are an eclectic mix of art nouveau meets gastro louche that clearly impresses the tourists and locals alike, and the menu takes much the same line. The menu is displayed on a vast blackboard in true bistro style, and mingles well with the candles and mismatched furniture.

Fillets of red mullet arrive in the company of crushed spuds and roast tomatoes with dragoncello sauce. Grilled Merguez sausage with lentils, roast pumpkin and harissa makes a welcome change from the sometimes slightly overworked sausages in onion gravy with mashed tatties.

There's a good range of vegetarian options, such as goat's cheese and piquillo pepper lasagne, and flat breads with dips. A small but well chosen wine list swings well with the food. Try and locate an upstairs table where the views are better and the atmosphere quieter.