The second of the Edinburgh Stac Pollys where good contemporary Scottish cuisine is to be found at its best. This one, in Dublin Street, consists of a labyrinth of cellars and passages worthy of some despot's final redoubt. The comparison ends there, since the same sort of food for which Grindlay Street is renowned is to be found here as well.

The home-cured Scottish salmon with line and avocado mousse, peppered rocket leaves and herb oil would make an excellent starter, followed by the poached swordfish with sun-dried tomatoes, roasted aubergines, fine beans, olive oil and saffron vinaigrette.

To pass by the white peach parfait with an almond biscuit and orange and caramel sauce would be an act of disloyalty, however much the cheese beckoned.

Wines are a strong act at both Stac Pollys with interesting choices and excellent house wines. No great vintages but for sound everyday drinking the choices are well matched to the food.