Stags Restaurant at New Park Manor, The

One of the advantages gained by William the Conqueror was the extension to his hunting grounds resulting from his conquest of England. In 1079 William set about establishing hunting as a prime recreation within what we now know as the New Forest. By 1666 King Charles II had established New Park Manor as his preferred residence during his hunting forays, leaving evidence of his proprietorship in the form of the Royal coat of arms above the fireplace in what is now the restaurant called Stags.

What the King may well have sensed, even in those far-off days, was the sheer remoteness and privacy of this well-located and beautiful house that is now enjoyed by a wider, if not just as appreciative, range of people, for most of whom hunting is not a priority. The enjoyment includes the close sense of identity with the surrounding wildlife, the ponies, the birds and the foxes that pad silently across the lawns at all hours of the day and night.

Inside the appearance is 'men's club', with plenty of wood, stone and leather around; warm, rich colours abound. The food tends to follow suit as the cuisine at New Park Manor Stags Restaurant is Modern English, with traditional favourites such as game and venison, all based on local, seasonal produce.

Dinner is a relaxed occasion, as a starter, you can select from a wide choice including seared scallops with beetroot salsa and pickled ginger, asparagus and quails egg salad with a black truffle dressing or perhaps a simple goat?s cheese ravioli with provencal vegetables and tapenade.

The selection of main courses offers a varied choice from grilled sea bass with pumpkin seed crust and parsnip purée, to fillet of beef with braised beef ravioli and a red wine jus. You might prefer the chump of Hampshire lamb with aubergine caviar and a lavender jus or seared Wiltshire pork fillet, Savoy and bacon parcel. The choice is all yours.

A champagne bavarois with wild strawberry sauce and almond tuile heads up the puddings, or an option on freshly churned ice creams or sorbets presented in a brandy snap basket. For the classically minded there is always a glazed lime tart with white chocolate sauce, and rhubarb and poppy seed sorbet, but for my taste the dark chocolate fondant with blueberry jelly, clotted cream and mint pesto would take some beating. The menu carries a useful list of pudding wines available by the glass or half bottle.

For lunch time a lighter menu is offered in the Polo Bar, unless of course you are resident in which case one of the beautifully put together picnic hampers can be yours. A range of salads includes smoked salmon and asparagus with a poached egg and raspberry vinaigrette, and hot options some of the grilled local sausages with creamed potato and red onion gravy.

A ciabatta selection offers char grilled fillet of beef with red onion, tomato and crisp lettuce. More modest, but equally filling sandwiches, with wholemeal or white bread turn the years back with Coronation chicken, or refreshing ham and tomato.

The Stags is a restaurant where the senses are fed, as well as the body, amidst surroundings of enormous charm and beauty, well up to the standard expected from those who aspire to nothing but the best.