The Standard claims to be "turning standards on their head", a bold claim, particularly considering the history of the site on which it stands, from which the décor derives, good classical 1850s that has survived the rollercoaster of ownerships and cuisines of former restaurants.

Now in the safe and experienced hands of Billy Lowe, the man behind the successful Saltire Taverns operation, we can look forward with confidence to some stability for this elegant and beautiful building.

Food is served from 8am (9am at weekends) until 1am, so no excuses for not being able to find time to visit. Nor will you need excuses once you settle into the place. Head Chef Alastair Ritchie, formerly at Melville Castle Hotel, knows his way around, with good recognisable food such as chicken pie, rib eye and sirloin steaks, roast Scottish salmon fillet.

Breakfast hits the right spot - the Scots have always served good starts to the day and with eggs Benedict and a full Scottish breakfast you do not need to look much further.

This is unashamed comfort food cooked to a very high standard in surroundings that are superbly done out, with all the appeal of a private club plus modern additions.