Stef's

Stef's Restaurant is the sleek new incarnation in Soho of Linda's Pasta Bar in Poland Street for eleven years. The story goes that when Stefano was asked who Linda was he replied, 'it used to be me but my wife made me put the dress away'.

That on one side mr average customer might be inclined to think that not a great deal had changed, but that would be to ignore the obvious, starting with an interior designed to wow all those who darken their doors. But yes there are some similarities and they are mostly good ones. Such as the menu which is vast and renowned for the appeal of its pizzas, no less than eighteen different home-made pastas and weekly specials which can often reflect the joviality of mine host.

One novel innovation is the CCTV system which allows customers to engage in badinage with the kitchen team, perhaps a somewhat risky exercise unless you are very polite. All of this jossing about induces an air of bonhomie that is infectious and fun meals are very much the norm.

Not that the quality of the food is lacking in its contribution the feeling of wellbeing that permeates the whole place. With starters of pan fried peppered squid tossed with baby spinach, red chilli and spring onions, or antipasto misto, slices of parma ham, salame Napoli, artichoke, sundried tomato and black olives your meal is off to a good start.

Consider the gamberoni diavola, Pacific king prawns tossed in white wine, garlic and a touch of chilli served on a bed of lemon risotto, and bring on the petto di pollo allaboscaiola, breast of chicken cooked in a light wild mushroom sauce with artichokes, honey and roasted pinenuts.

No Italian menu is complete without its gnocchi, this one with four great Italian cheeses, or there is Stef's folded pizza with tomato, mozzarella, salame, mushrooms and ham.

Italian cooking knows how to handle a steak - can you recall the last time you had a disappointing one under their influence? Well, if the answer is 'yes' hurry along to Stef's and order the bistecca di manzo ai tre pepi, sirloin steak in a light brandy, cream and 3 peppercorn sauce, and have your faith restored. But if it's fish you're after the tonno alla griglia should be right for you, succulent tuna steak served on a bed of baby spinach and cherry tomatoes drizzled with extra virgin oil and balsamic vinegar.

House wine at £11.95, or £3.25 a glass is excellent value either way, and reflect the general level of prices in the restaurant which for a W1 address are impressively kind with an average spend of not much over £20 a head. You will meet business community, theatregoers, tourists, lovers and children, in a happy blend of gastronomic pleasure, smart casual dress code, and staff who make sure your pleasure comes first.