Stock Hill Restaurant

The country house hotel concept lives on, thrives even, and nowhere better than in Britain where the concept of entertaining in the country not only lives on privately but acts as a point of reference for the commercially owned variety. This has been much helped by the get-away-from-it-all principle as the hectic pace of urban life takes its toll.

So the notion of a privately owned and owner-run Victorian country house hotel tucked away in eleven acres of mature and beautifully nurtured, wooded grounds on the borders of three of our most attractive counties, Dorset, Somerset and Wiltshire, is an appealing one. Add to this eight bedrooms each of which is straight out of an individual mould with its own name and character. Supremely comfortable beds, interesting antiques well supported by the sort of modern comforts you would expect to find in a country house hotel offer a degree of luxury that is exemplary.

As one guest remarked, "...a complete unique experience for one who is used to staying in chain hotels the difference stood out a mile..."

Peter Hauser, the co-owner with his wife Nita, is in command of the kitchen working to an interesting blend of classic French and English cuisine. That it is tinged with an underlay of Austrian influence could just have something to do with Peter's native Austrian upbringing and training at the Hotel Schwechaterhof in Linz. Here in Dorset he draws heavily on the local produce, including herbs from his walled garden. His philosophy can be best summarised in the words, 'I don't cook like anyone else, I cook like me'.

Canapés are served with the aperitif of your choice, followed by a little appetiser designed to out the juices on red alert, served with the chef's compliments. Eight starters could include poached quail and quail egg ravioli with double beef consommé and diced root vegetables; peeled Norwegian prawns with tomato and brandy mayonnaise 'super maison', or avocado pear, sunblush tomato, anchovy fillets Niçoise and Balsamic vinegar dressing.

By this time the stage is set, the standards established, the wine flows and a comfortable air of relaxed enjoyment has taken over. Into this haven of pleasure the main course can yield Aga-roasted French guinea breast deglazed with Pernod, thyme crushed potatoes and buttered Savoy or a Viennese paprika beef goulash 'Fiaker style', spatzli and fried egg and pickled gherkin.

The sea bass caught in Cornish waters are superb, but roasted whole with poached fennel, Tom Thumb tomatoes and parsley new potatoes it never fails to delight. And so to the empty space that we hope you have left for a tilt at the desserts, with a bitter chocolate and pitted black cherry roulade with Kirsch cream well to the fore, or should the space be slim the fresh dates filled with almond paste may well suffice.

All this attention to detail would be to less avail if it were not for the backing of a cellar that has good links with the kitchen and has obviously been chosen with care and a love of the subject. Stock Hill is a haven, as so many people over the years have discovered - it is restrained yet embracing, it breathes an air of calm and deep pleasure, and it is there for fortunate people to enjoy and refresh themselves.

Consult their Website for the many surrounding attractions, offers, winter breaks and the daily changing menus.