John Wilkinson (30 June 2008)

Having been a visitor to Stock Hill for many years it seems only fair to let a few people hear about one of Dorset's secrets. Peter Hauser is an accomplished chef and with wife Nita and her sister Lorna has built up a restaurant and hotel business that is envied by many. The cuisine has the definite Austrian influence of Peter's homeland, but combined with his classical training has evolved into something that is both unique and full of character. You are welcomed to the restaurant by Nita and led to one of the guest lounges, where you can settle down with an apéritif and a delightful assortment of homemade canapés. You are invited to choose your food from a daily changing menu and select your wine from a well stocked cellar, then sit back for a while to savour the atmosphere and views over the landscaped garden. Mr Hauser then sends his 'compliments' and invites you to be seated in the restaurant. Crisp white linen, silver cutlery and decorated tables greet you as you enter the airy, spacious room.

A small surprise arrives, with compliments of the chef - a delightful cup of soup that you would kill for the recipe! Then the starters of seared scallops, calves liver pâté, bream in blonde batter, and others too numerous to list. There is certainly something superb to suit every taste including those who prefer a vegetarian option. The main course offers a compendium of tastes and fine food experiences. Peter Hauser uses many of his own seasonal vegetables, organically grown in the kitchen garden, while meat and fish are frequently sourced locally in Dorset and Somerset. A remarkable silence reigns in the dining room when the food arrives and then compliments and comments abound - many from returning guests.

The dessert course is, due to Peter's nationality, a series of masterpieces - from the potent Austrian gateaux, to light and airy meringues featuring decorative swans and deep, dark chocolate - one of Peter's signature dishes. A choice of six superbly crafted desserts or a selection from a local cheeseboard with fresh bread, celery and walnuts, should ensure that everyone is catered for. The dinner includes freshly brewed coffee or tea and a plate of homemade petit fours to round off the experience. All in all, a delightful place to visit with a very reasonable bill at the end.