Little wonder there are now two Stravaigins in Glasgow, the same city where recent experiments in changing the city's eating habits have fallen on peaty ground. Both Stravaigin and Stravaigin 2 operate within a mile or so of each other, both other roughly the same approach, which might be termed as affordable excellence, and both are doing extremely well thank you.

Take, for instance the a la carte at Stravaigin 2, where a starter might be soused mackerel on tapenade toast with balsamic bacon relish, followed by Persian marinated fillet of lamb, spiced Lebanese fritters, minty labneh and pomegranate jus, and back to Scottish preference with Stravaigin 2's jeely peece. No, just go and try it.

At Stravaigin an unusual starter represents well the breadth of approach in the kitchen with hare carpaccio and ox tongue, served with anise-poached pear and salsa verde, before moving on to Achiote marinated breast of Gressingham duck with orange, coriander and polenta stack, refried beans and Poncho Caballero gravy. If you think that is fairly exceptional reserve some plaudits for the pudding and try the beetroot and chocolate cake, decorated with squash and black pepper ice cream and rosemary caramel.

These are the creations of people with skills that derive from real feeling for cuisine and the relationship of ingredients with each other and their invitation to you to join with them in that process, is born of humility and sheer dedication. The wine list still has some way to go before it keeps abreast of the food, and house wine at £14.95 is fair value, with four by the glass