Straw Hat, The

In the dim and distant past we used to visit a restaurant just outside Sawbridgeworth, which for sheer rural charm was hard to beat. It was therefore with mixed feelings that the discovery was made - it is now Posh and Beck's idea of an impulsive local night out, which come to think of it is really the point we started from all those years ago.

However, where we used to tuck into prawn cocktails and beef stroganoff, the present clientele head for an oriental experience with modern and traditional Chinese, Thai and Japanese dishes. Sushi is still a comparative rarity outside an urban location, but here the sushi bar offers a wide range of varieties, as well as takeaway. The seafood dishes, so special when done properly in a pan-Asian environment, are extra special here with lobster in several manifestations and on a humbler level a mixed seafood hotpot in "sha cha" sauce. Amongst the starters expect to find abalone with caviar and gold foil, and delicious Mongolian style sliced venison.

To ease the thought processes, particularly for beginners, there are helpful and obviously well thought out set menus that are a genuine introduction to this wonderful world of delicate and healthy food. Prices in general are sufficiently above average to justify the care in preparation and freshness of the food; if you want to pay the earth for real speciality items you will be in good company.

A punchy wine list faces an oriental menu without making too many concessions, and there is no cause to doubt the integrity of both.