If not quite every town, at least every University town has to have one, though the Sultan, it must be said, does not have too much in the way of competition. However, it does not rest upon its laurels as evidenced by an imposing range of awards, and even more convincingly by a steady stream of regulars.

Décor is fairly conventional and the spirit of Islam is heavily invoked which is fine, but what about the food which is, after all, why we're there. Well, the news on that front is good too and whilst you may not be rushed off your feet by eastern surprise, you will be presented with recognisable, well-prepared dishes that will gladden your tastebuds and do all those things that the lifestyle mags say spiced food does for you nowadays.

Mind you, a lot of us have known that all along and are just pleased to have our little weaknesses clothed with trendy approval. So enjoy your seafood samosas and good range of pakoras before moving to the Sultan balti special or the desi prawns, or palak gosht even, where the spinach comes thorough strongly and the lamb is cooked as for a curry. Puddings are all fairly predictable too though I rather fancied the idea of the orange bomb, a splendidly indulgent proposition in which vanilla ice cream is combined with real fruit orange sauce and covered with milk chocolate, another blow for freedom from the tyranny of what is thought to be good for you.

Whatever people like me might say about a restaurant, what really matters is do people go there in sufficient numbers for it to remain viable. If so that represents a need and Sultan does a very good job of meeting that need in Lancaster.