Swan at Iver, The

Another pub which has followed the now time-honoured process of transition from tired, run-down village boozer to rejuvenated, TLC'd gastropub. Leaving on one side the feelings of a small number of dispossessed old boys who have lost their refuge from reality one can only marvel at the drive and imagination with which such places are transformed, displaying in this case that there are really no limits to what you can do with a 16th century coaching inn if you put your mind to it.

The menu is strictly modern British with warm salad of duck accompanied by pickled baby beets and a hazelnut and raspberry dressing, roast cod and brioche bread and butter pudding as part of an extensive and appealing range of dishes. There seems little doubt that this is the way ahead in our egalitarian age - I wonder what will follow?