Swan Bar & Restaurant, The

There are some English pubs that are just so English you instinctively feel they should be listed, preserved, stopped from ever changing, most of which is totally unreasonable. But sometimes forces conspire to ensure that it happens anyway, and The Swan at Ley Hill is a fine example.

Its existence hinges very much round some of the best traditional ales in Britain, genuine well prepared food, cricket and space. With bull points like those it is no surprise that it is a very popular little place. Dating from the 16th century it has a massive inglenook, a snug, restaurant and lounge bar, unlimited parking, and a short list on display of local 'gentry' no longer permitted entry to any pubs in the area.

A meal from the à la carte could start with Scottish smoked salmon with truffled potato salad and horseradish crème fraiche, followed by a char-grilled fillet steak with triple cooked chips, oven dried tomatoes and garlic and parsley butter. For dessert perhaps a hazelnut tart with vanilla ice cream, or the interesting cheese board, with quince jelly.

A short but potent wine list is supported by such historic names as Timothy Taylor's Landlord bitter, Adnams and Breakspeares, or Addlestone's draught cider for the hard cases. The Swan is a place to be treasured and enjoyed - with a bit of luck it will long outlive less hallowed institutions.