Swettenham Arms, The

Tucked away in one of the leafier parts of the very rural county of Cheshire, the Swettenham Arms was once a nunnery and served as a watering hole for weary funeral parties. Run now by proprietors Frances and Jim Cunningham since 1993, the place has a very hands-on feel to it, which hopefully has nothing at all to do with the apparitions reported from time to time at the pub. A well documented tunnel is said to have linked the inn with the nearby church - perhaps to enable the thirstier members of the choir to nip across for a swift pint unobserved in between hymns.

Head Chef Richard Holden has established over the past twelve years a reputation for quality food, achieved through a well-trained brigade of chefs who clearly love their work. A meal could start with a fluted Cheshire cheese tart with leek and apple, in a short crust, and topped with hazelnuts. Tiger prawns are sautéed in garlic and chive butter, or perhaps a dalliance with some game and roast shallot terrine served with sweet red plum and ginger compote appeals even more.

The main event chosen from around ten options might include a steak and kidney pudding; lamb Henry, a shoulder of local lamb slowly baked in a mint and mustard marinade; poached Scotch salmon or a steak and mushroom pie. Long gone are the days when turkeys felt nervous around Christmas time - now they feel nervous all the time, especially when there is a distinct prospect of making a final appearance under the sturdy appetites of diners at this attractive place of rest and refreshment.

Chef's signature dishes are plentiful in number and splendid in quality, starting with lamb cutlets, going on to monkfish medallions sautéed with oyster mushrooms and chives, or the magnificent game trio - a rabbit leg casseroled in Addlestones cider, partridge breast stuffed with a smooth farce and a sautéed pigeon breast, served with quenelles of smoked bacon. The fresh vegetables that go with every main course are presented with imagination and their chips have a reputation for never having been frozen.

A range of light meals meets well the needs of those wanting something less challenging, with homemade lasagne, Lancashire hot pot with rosemary dumplings, deep fried cod in a light crisp batter, and the signature burger, homemade and served in a toasted seeded bun topped with mature cheddar caramelised onions.

Connoisseurs of classic beers will revel in the Timothy Taylors Landlord, the King of Bitters, Hydes Bitter and Moorhouse's famous Pendle Witches Brew weighing in at ABV 5.1%. The discerning wine list is well travelled, has some half bottles, and embraces new finds including the new star of Marlborough's, Catalina Sounds Sauvignon.

The Swettenham Arms is most certainly not one of your quiet little hideaways - rural it may be but eventful it certainly is, whether you are attending a classic car meeting there, or enjoying yourself at a wedding, family reunion or tribute event. Do check their Website for what's cooking, whether it's in the kitchen or round about this highly enjoyable Cheshire inn.