Talbot Inn, The

The Talbot is one of those historical gems that you wish you'd found years ago, buried deep in traditional West Country beauty and remote from the troubles of the wider world beyond. As such they are at their best serving traditional English food that derives its attraction from being simple and unfussy, often locally sourced and served with pride. Menu items include smoked salmon tagliatelli, goat's cheese ciabatta, and calf's liver and bacon. Brixham is not that far away so the fish does not have far to travel - I was reminded of Rick Stein asking on a TV programme recently how fresh the sole was, which duly obliged by a dying flap of the tail. Sea bass fillets with saffron and mussel sauce spring to mind. House wine from a strongly French list sells at £10.95 and for those who appreciate real ale, Butcombe bitter is on tap.

The Talbot is one of those places where the art of making the customer feel relaxed and comfortable is perfected to the point where it all seems completely natural - which it is, but as ever not without considerable skill.