Even somewhere so august as Cirencester needs its Chinese and Tanyans fills the slot with the customary style that one associates with the eclectic mixture of county and college peculiar to the town. A clever shop conversion, Tanyans offers most of the traditional Chinese dishes and strays little from that path. Expect well-prepared and authentic delights such as those enshrined in their gourmet dinner, which starts with a chef's hors d'ouevre, through prawns wrapped in lettuce to the ever popular crispy aromatic duck. Prawns with green pepper in black bean sauce, chicken with cashew nuts in yellow bean sauce, dry shredded beef and sweet and sour pork follow in steady succession, all served with fried rice, the student's universal favourite (must be something lacking in college diets).

House wine starts at £9.50 and there is, for a Chinese restaurant which to be fair do not always excel on our forms of homage to Bacchus, an erudite and interesting list, almost entirely from France, with which to toy.