This new addition to the London gastropub scene has a good pedigree that derives from The Endurance and The Perserverance. One could end there, but hardly fair to a venue that has its own virtues, including masses of fuchsia flock wallpaper and some rather awesome mounted animal heads, an original fireplace and suede curtains.

The dining room upstairs is open evenings only, lunch is served downstairs in an atmosphere rich with dark oak, good ales and a middle of the road wine list. The food is designed for those whose needs are located in quantity as a first priority, and can include smoked mackerel pate with pickled salsify, venison sausages on mash, veal chop with green pesto and chard, followed by baked rhubarb cheesecake or Bramley apple tatin.

A secondary consideration is the quality and traceability of the ingredients. Brunch at weekends is big thing.