Tempus at The George

It's not often that I use the word salubrious, for what I hope are fairly obvious reasons. But I must say that when circumstances take me to Edinburgh there are few places I would rather be, with the possible exception of the Arts Club, than The George which, as a result of quite recent upheavals, now has Tempus added to it. Since tempus means time all I can add is that Tempus is one of the best possible places to spend it. Salubrious in fact, with most of the trappings that go with formality but totally lacking in any demands upon its clientele other than modern casual.

Described as "one of George Street's coolest bar and restaurant adventures", it has a distinguished cast of management with Marc Robertson, formerly of the Oxford Pear Tree, leading in the kitchen.

The menu is branded, so we start with Tempus Begins, that includes Loch Fyne oysters, and melon with Parma ham, or Loch Fyne smoked salmon. Tempus Continues with such well presented delights as ground fillet beef burger, breast of duck, Buccleuch beef Wellington, a seafood platter (for two) and grilled calves liver.

I did think all this might be followed by Tempus Fugit, but no it's Tempus Finale with such glorious indiscretions as knickerbocker glory, chocolate muffin trifle served with shortbread, churned ice cream with shortbread fingers by Luca of Musselburgh, or the ubiquitous and ever welcome lemon tart.

For a country that gave us the amber nectar, Scotland knows what it's about when it comes to wine too. The cellar here - Tempus Bacchus perhaps? - will most certainly not disappoint.