In contrast to its younger sibling at Cambridge, the Jamaica Plain outlet has just ten tables so that should easily notch up the cosy factor. The concept of Ten Tables is the brainchild of Krista Kranyak who draws inspiration from small European restaurants with that unmistakable warmth. The interior is bistro-styled and the open kitchen helps diners watch chefs at close quarters.

The homemade country sausage with cabbage, bacon, and Bartlett and chicken liver pâté with orange marmalade, pickles, and toast make interesting appetizers, which could be followed by Portuguese fish stew with wolffish, Wellfleet littlenecks and aioli. For meatier main courses try the Meyer hanger steak, ricotta cavatelli with braised lamb ragù and Dubreton pork chops. Chocolate terrine with sea salt and Thai basil ice cream bring in a touch of innovation but for those who'd wish to tread the familiar path the banana upside-down cake with hazelnut anglaise is always at hand.