Thai Jantra

There is no doubt about it the Thai culinary presence in this country does things in style. At Boston Spa, in deepest Yorkshire, Dean and Natalia Hannan have developed an old coaching house into a stylish and warmly welcoming restaurant, employing quality local ingredients within a fusion of food and cuisine from very different parts of the globe to create a unique dining experience.

Starters of Thai fishcakes are made with minced white fish, spicy red curry, beans a yard long (I'm green with envy already) and Kaffir lime leaves, served with a peanut and chilli dipping sauce, or perhaps a Jantra mixed platter for two.

Anyone who has reservations about untraceable ingredients when eating out can forget them here particularly where meat and vegetables are concerned. Both Dean and Natalie are scrupulous in their sourcing, with dishes like stir fried pork with green peppercorns and vegetables almost certainly of local origin.

Halibut, king prawns and seabass will have known no other waters than those round our islands, a thought to embrace when enjoying tiger prawns with yellow curry and vegetables. The delicate stir fried jasmine rice with crab meat is a real savoury dish, though I would need to be forcibly dragged away from the spicy mixed seafood salad with chillies, lemons and coriander.

A well chosen wine list, including some organic influences, takes due heed of the flavours inherent in Thai cuisine, rarely strays much beyond the £20/£30 mark, with some very credible bins well below that. Sadly I saw no English wines. We know the Romans made wine as far north as Yorkshire; let's hope global warming may help us to do it again.