The steady increase in popularity of Thai cuisine in Britain, and elsewhere, is one of the more heartening indicators of the eating out scene. Over the years we have absorbed other national cuisines with relative ease, and most are here to stay. But there has always been the feeling that Thai is rather special, rather more shrouded in Eastern mystique than some and with a reputation for often being created and served by Thai ladies of great beauty and dexterity.

It is therefore even more of a pleasure to write about Thai Sunset in bustling and quietly prosperous Bushey, the sort of place where Thai cuisine thrives. David Krite and his Thai wife, Anotai, have been married 20 years, during which they have talked about setting up a restaurant, but life passes by and there are other things to be done. So they are now devoting their retirement to this long term dream, not the sort of occupation that most people think about for the second half of their lives.

Anotai works the magic in the kitchen, David looks after front of house, a combination that clearly works well. For many Thai cooking is still something of a mystery, so their six well constructed set menus, two of them vegetarian, are more than a little welcome.