Chelmsford has been a long time waiting for The Alma in its present form. The only pub in the town to have an entry in the Good Pub Guide, it offers food to a standard which should take it a very long way. This is a place for those who take their food seriously.

The a la carte menu opens up with King prawns in a filo nest, an oriental salad and a plum and coriander dip. Or there is surf'n turf, pan-fried scallops, mini burgers, pickled vegetables and pea puree. Main courses include chump of lamb with Dauphinois potatoes, aubergine and red pepper ragout, butternut squash and rosemary jus.

Chelmsford, not so very far from the sea, does not disappoint when it comes to the fish either. A dish of pan-fried fillet of seabass with a duo of King prawns on wilted spinach and in the company of fine beans, mini jacket potatoes and lemon crème fraiche makes a regular appearance.

Sticky toffee pudding has the traditional butterscotch sauce and hot custard alongside, whilst a tangy lemon tart makes a nod to classicism, with a lime sorbet and tuille biscuit to hand.

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