I was always under the impression that stern Welsh religion, as practised in many a Salem chapel, and angels, did not make theological harmony, but I could be wrong. Certainly the Angel Inn in Salem ministers to the needs not only of the village of that name but an also an ever increasing flock from further afield, fired up by the simple but judiciously selected lunches.

However, these are but a prelude to the far more elaborate meals served in the evenings. Welsh ingredients feature prominently and dinner might consist of a pine kernel soufflé, medallions of the local beef in a tarragon rarebit crust with cannelloni beans and chorizo, followed by local strawberries with pannacotta. Service is friendly and efficient.

The wine list is worthy of the menu, drawn from a wide spread and at prices which make comfortable reading, with house wine from £11.