Formerly owned by Dan and Fiona Evans, a change of hands in late 2005 does not appear to changed the quality, this is a really buzzing gastro-pub, and diffiicult to get into as a result, full of life with no strict definitions but snapping to attention on the subject of food. A menu board dominates the end of the room, with messages tuned to the seasons and availability in a positive kind of way.

The menu delivers a wide choice of dishes from round the world in a thoroughly individual style. It is noted for its desserts, like the poached pear with matching sorbet, and, if you are contemplating gastronomic suicide, think in terms of the Yankee dark and white chocolate truffle cake with chilled ginger and Bourbon anglaise; nobody deserves to survive too many of those. Globe-trotting wine list starting at £10.50, with around 15 by the glass.

However, watch out for their so-called 'Mineral Water' it is merely filtered tap water for which they charge a whopping £2.75, it must cost them almost 1 pence; they should offer it free like Strada do.