If you entertain the uncanny feeling as you sit at your table in the Boar's Nest that you might just be sitting in a former butcher's shop, you'd be absolutely right. Mind you it is well enough disguised not to put you off your sirloin steak. Described as 'shabby chic' I would say that is a spot-on observation.

With a marked emphasis on robust and filling food the dinner menu lists around eight starters that include Boars Nest brawn with watercress, veal and ham pie with duck egg mayonnaise, and a lusty fish soup with white crab meat from Whitby. My money is on the baked native oysters and smoked salmon with avocado, bacon and cheddar, a simply stunning meeting of flavours on one dish.

On to the mains where roast loin of local lamb shares the plate with Bury black pudding and minted meat juices, and it would be churlish at least not to mention the breaded wild boar fillet served with a fried duck egg and lemon brown butter.

Topping the desserts is a fruit loaf with Wensleydale which, if you think it strange, is a fascinating blend that many find compelling. Treacle tart comes with yoghurt ice cream and in season keep a lookout for the chilled rice pudding with English raspberries.

An extremely well annotated wine list helps take the pain out of making decisions at a time when you may well be escaping from that challenging occupation. The expertise does not end there either - grey goose vodka, Plymouth gin head a fine list of spirits, and whisky buffs will have a field day.

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