The Box Tree started off life as a humble farmhouse in 1720. Its transition to restaurant dates from 1962 and for a time served as the setting for Marco Pierre White's upward progress. It is good to be able to report that it is now back in good hands with Simon Gueller and his wife Rina in charge. The welcome is warm, the décor and trappings bears the hand of someone who knows their business only too well and you are immediately at ease. The menu offers that rare commodity, a relatively short range of dishes each one of which manages to tickle the imagination. What a refreshing change from those lengthy menus that fail to strike a single chord.

The risotto of English lobster, served with fresh tarragon and essence of lobster makes a noble starter, though the ravioli of quail with creamed cabbage, essence of cepes and fresh thyme is not far behind. Amongst the ravishing main courses single out the roast wild sea bass with aubergine caviar, anchovy beignet, confit tomatoes, beurre noisette and balsamic. For those of a more adventurous nature there is braised Old Spot pig's trotter stuffed with ham hock and morels and finished with Madeira truffle sauce.

A classic caramelised lemon tart with lemon ice cream achieves the usual high standard expected at this charismatic restaurant, though the hot prune and armagnac soufflé with ice cream will provide close competition.

The Box Tree has always been renowned for its wine list and nothing changes there except for the better. Service is impeccable and there seems little doubt that Gueller's foray into the country, after all that time in Leeds, will be a success story in keeping with the culinary reputation of The Box Tree; as The Which? Good Food Guide 2007 has now recognised by making them Yorkshire Restaurant of the Year.