This is a place with more than a bit of history. Just over a century ago the deal that saw the foundation of the Chelsea Football Club was signed in an upstairs room. Both Club and Pub have hit the high spots since then. Resisting the temptation to cash in on the football crowds, they have created a bar and brasserie at the front, with a dining room towards the back, giving a good social mix. When the days get warm the ground floor windows open fully, with a great feeling of space and fresh air.

A lunch and evening menu changes regularly, so on the evening menu expect to find duck and hazelnut terrine, beer battered haddock goujons with tartare sauce, or roast black leg chicken breast with puy lentils, Jerusalem artichoke, carrots and Madeira. Prunes and Armagnac parfait bring together a good blend of textures and flavours.

The wine list is treasure trove stuff, with something for everybody, at prices that are comfortably affordable. This is a great place, but it's being increasingly discovered - hurry, hurry before it's overrun.