The "Sausage" as it has inevitably become known has quickly achieved a place in the affections of the good folk of Bristol. There are alcoves, oak tables, candles and warm yellow and sky blue walls, the whole offering a degree of comfort akin to the excellent food.

Smoked haddock fish cakes from the Chew Valley make an excellent starter, with curried mayonnaise and an English leaf salad, followed by pan-fried calf's liver with horseradish mash, crispy smoked bacon and Rioja jus, or the fish of the day straight from the Cornish coast.

As we all know there are all sorts of things you can do with a sausage and at Clifton they do quite a few of them. There's toad in the hole with the banger of your choice, there are snorkers made with beef and Spitfire ale, there's The Clifton, pork, cider and wholegrain mustard and there's Gloucester Old Spot.

Traditional faggots, always a close cousin of the sausage in my view, feature on the menu, and a classic fish pie is sensibly served with fine green beans, all dishes with access to a wonderful array of side orders.

Puddings are very English inclined and to my relief the temptation to stuff some stretchable edible material with bread and butter has been resisted.

Thirty or so wines are available by the glass, with many more on an internationally immaculate list. Draught lagers and beers include Leffe Blonde, Amstel and San Miguel. Service is cheerful and professional.

Definitely one for the book.