Jim Kerr probably will not thank me for the 'British' designation that he has been given, but honestly what else do you do with a guy who has cooked his way through No 1 Devonshire and Rogano, has flirted heavily with eastern influences en route and will produce more or less any dish known to man at the drop of a wok? Global? Never mind here in Byres Road, one of the more respectable parts of that lovely 'all human life is here' city Jim is constantly surprising his customers, possibly even himself, by the diversity of his dishes ranging from the very sophisticated to more mortal offerings such as new style sashimi, swordfish steamed in paper with Asian greens, a salad of grilled artichoke and goat's cheese, or tartare of salmon and scallop with caviar.

Moreover his prices are so reasonable as to be almost classified as typo's, with lunch and the pre-theatre suppers giving special value.