There is an air of gentility about The Dining Room at 28 Queen Street, Edinburgh that somehow summarises the graciousness of Edinburgh. A menu that has its epicentre in Britain with outposts in Europe takes full advantage of the abundance of wholesome ingredients for which Scotland is renowned.

As if this is not enough, 28 Queen Street also happens to be the nerve centre of The Scotch Malt Whisky Society. Whilst whisky of any kind has a part to play in matters of the table, it is less involved than wine so it is encouraging to see the Society taking its gastronomy seriously, with Chef James Freeman in the lead from the time of its opening in 2005.

Everything on The Dining Room's menu is homemade from the amuse bouche to the puddings. Primarily, and apart from private functions, The Dining Room exists to offer an à la carte menu, backed up by a menu du jour, to both members and a wider public. It is an ideal location for a light lunch or something a touch more formal such as a romantic get-together, business lunch or social celebration.

Whether or not you are addicted to the blessed dram, chances are that you will not be unaware of the joys of the grape and The Society can meet you more than half way on such matters. As well as an excellent selection by the glass there is a range of fine wines to please the connoisseur and the recreational drinker alike.

The Dining Room menu has that happy knack of offering two menus that are just long enough to give cause for hesitation and can hardly fail to suit anyone for whom the joys of the table are a serious matter. There is a good balance between the different styles; let's say breast of pheasant and roast scallops followed by chestnut and chocolate millefeuille with a truffle honey sabayon.

Grilled black figs, goat's cheese mousse and a basil salad provide the sort of starter that is designed to stir the palate with a pleasing range of flavours. There are huge numbers of deer in Scotland, so double joy to see venison haunch with winter roots and mustard fruits, spätzle and a black pepper sauce receiving appreciate attention from robust diners. A wonderful yet still largely unappreciated choice of meat.

Imagination is on display with such detail as a sheep's cheese dressing that subtly conveys its presence to a beetroot remoulade accompanying rare venison loin. Amongst the desserts expect to find at the right time of the year the Society Christmas pudding with brandy butter ice cream, or orange gelée with whisky raisin ice cream. Side orders are inspiring and include potatoes roasted in duck fat, chipolatas with bacon and buttered sprouts with chestnuts.

It would of course be churlish not to mention The Scotch Malt Whisky Society's other activities, of which arranging single cask whisky tastings on or off the premises, in fact anywhere in the world, is a major preoccupation. Private parties are also very welcome and you do not have to be a member to book.

The Society's Website is a partly whimsical, but at heart quite a serious statement of what they do, and you might even feel tempted to join. Slàinte mhath!