As the evening light fades, the Ducane comes alive with the presence of locals as well as visitors quaffing their drink and heaping their plates in the best traditions of country hospitality. Ensconced in the quiet leafy village of Great Braxted, and named after erstwhile lords of the manor, this is where good cooking, a cheerful ambience and a commitment to quality come together to create a certain effervescence.

A small group of friends led by head chef Jonathan has come together to create this culinary gem. Fresh local produce is admirably showcased by traditional recipes, with a hint of innovation, to turn out such dishes as tart of Abbington's smoked goat's milk cheddar, roasted breast of chicken wrapped in pastry with bacon and mushroom sauce, and roasted chestnut mushroom, wild garlic, asparagus, saffron and herb risotto.

Of course, there's no ignoring the delightfully sinful rich chocolate terrine with chocolate sauce and crème Chantilly, the mulled plum crumble in red wine syrup with vanilla crème fraiche or the Ducane knickerbocker glory for a fitting end to a fine meal.