Elephant opened in 2003, since when a cornucopia of reviews, press comment and enthusiastic critics have left no room for doubt that we are looking at a major new addition to the culinary delights of the South West.

Chef Simon Hulstone is quoted as saying that Devon and the West Country has a wonderful larder, giving him the ability to source some of the best ingredients possible. As the holder of more than 30 international gold medals he is well placed to make the most use such natural bounty.

In a fashionably smart dining room expect to find creamed Jerusalem artichoke soup with foie gras and an orange syrup, or traditional Devon hogs pudding with morel and a wild garlic ragout and an egg boiled at low temperature.

Amongst the classics on offer consider the grilled rib eye of South Devon beef with hand cut chips and home made ketchup. A fillet of red mullet with a saffron stock, brown lentils and roast celeriac is a masterpiece of flavours that compliment, though you may feel tempted to add a side order of their renowned roast potatoes.

The desserts open up another veritable minefield of temptation, with the attention of many focused on the bitter chocolate and olive oil truffle, with raspberry and red pepper jelly and a passion fruit coulis.

Their bar food menu is equally inspiring in its own way, with the Elephant sea food platter a suitably celebratory dish. A small and perfectly adequate wine list ensures a quick decision. Elephant should be an addition to your ones-to-watch list.