The Engineer has been doing business in an inconspicuous corner of Gloucester Avenue and Princess Road for quite some time, but they serve some cracking food and are invariably packed on weekends. The imposing structure is believed to have  been built by the legendary engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel, between 1845 and 1850, and the historic connection still remains in its brown stock brick, stucco dressing and iron light fixtures.

The cooking sets standards that evoke interest among the AA and Michelin Guide inspectors as well as discerning local diners; the style is modern British with a hint of Pacific Rim. Cured duck with cantaloupe melon, pickled ginger, cress and soy dressing, and potted Cornish crab with brown bread and butter make for a great introduction at dinner time. The main course line-up is impressive too, with twice cooked pork belly, miso marinated sea bass and char-grilled lamb fillet with orzo pasta, apricot salad and baby aubergine.

Although the Engineer's interior is bright and pleasant, dining in the garden is a pleasant alternative during summer months.