Sibling of the same name in Sale, Altrincham Fat Loaf pursues much the same course, with Matt Shaw, ex-Room, as Head Chef. Dawdling in the bar before moving to the dining room you may become distracted by the wide selection of beers, twelve of world class, which go down well with the local appreciation.

There is a changing lunch menu, the customary bow to the great Sunday Lunch and a main menu which serves well for the rest of the time. Starters offer minestrone soup with spicy pork dumplings, or a King prawn risotto greatly strengthened with sweet chilli jam amongst other dishes.

Main courses go straight into the nitty-gritty with a chicken and braised leek pie and morel cream, an 8oz Aberdeen Angus ribeye steak with peppercorn sauce and pommes frite, or poached monkfish wrapped in Parma ham, pesto noodles and tomato compote.

Puddings of prune, Armagnac and vanilla pot, or good honest bread and butter pudding sit well with a bistro menu that is nicely rounded off with a wine list that represents exceptional value: Cloudy Bay sauvignon blanc at £22 a bottle, Veuve Cliquot yellow label at £32 - c'mon!