Only 37 miles from the heart of London, The Frog is a pleasant survival from another age. Loaded down with oak beams and log fires, Frog makes few concessions to the fripperies of the times, but a subtle uplift in the food on offer is certainly one of them.

The fairly fundamental tack of dishes like sausage, bacon and fried baguettes has been embellished by lemon grass and chilli mussels, watercress pancake parcels amply filled with smoked haddock, potato rosti topped with poached egg, smoked salmon and black pudding or roast rack of herb crusted Oxfordshire lamb, rosti potato and mulberry jus, followed by banoffee pie.

The local ales are powerful and carry picturesque names like Sharp's Doom Bar, and at weekends when the place become really full it makes sense to book first.