In the best possible sense it bears some resemblance to the sumptuously comfortable houses that Victorian magnates used to build for themselves, with an air of contented permanence. But this one has state of the art comfort built in as well, and with its position at the centre of its community possesses a certain air of bustle.

The dining room occupies a bow windowed room of distinction with olive and aubergine dominating the colour charts. In the best boutique style a blackboard menu rules listing dishes like roast butternut squash soup with crumbled bacon and parmesan shavings, warm lobster salad with sun blushed tomatoes and black olives. A main course of seared tuna steak on homemade tagliatelle could be followed by pain au chocolat bread and butter pudding with custard.

A lively wine list pays homage to the menu, and own label house wine is good value at £12.50, with plenty more up to £55.