You can expect a national institution such as The Dorchester to be on top of the form in all its departments. Whilst it may therefore come as no surprise that their flagship Grill, under the care of Head Chef Brian Hughson is in excellent shape, it is reassuring to know that English cuisine done with imagination and flair can still lead the world.

The rich and opulent décor amply matches the quality of the food and service which is perfectly manned with never a hint of grovel, all that any reasonable person asks. Brian Hughson's pedigree shines through his menu of traditional British and classic grill dishes. With twenty years of culinary experience which includes cooking for the British royalty, and his prior stint at Gary Rhodes's W1, Pétrus and the Savoy Grill, one would expect a certain level of proficiency and he certainly does not disappoint.

Carefully sourced ingredients are apparent from the outset, wild Scottish smoked salmon and gravadlax setting the right note, with a flavour that utterly convinces. The British love affair with fish and other creatures of the sea is reflected in a menu that certainly takes heed of this trait and of the courses normally on offer no less than three are from the sea, starting with Cornish pollock, lemon sole goujons, or native lobster roasted in vanilla butter, braised red onions, lobster mayonnaise and bitter leaves. Pot roast of pigs head with cinnamon and honey and Casterbridge beef fillet with bone marrow and haggis risotto makes for an interesting set of dishes that are not likely to be missed.

A wine list of featuring Old and New World wines are at hand to accompany your meal and experienced sommeliers will help you make the right choice.