Like a phoenix from the ashes the Havelock Tavern has risen again and is now a faithful replica of its former illustrious self. Those who have been on a long absence might be forgiven for thinking that nothing had happened.

The menu never stays the same for any length of time but amongst its offerings expect to find cauliflower and artichoke soup with truffle oil, and char-grilled bavette steak, chips, salad, garlic and tarragon. At lunchtime you may see deep-fried monkfish cheeks with tiger prawns, and lamb, fig and mint tagine with couscous, yoghurt and coriander. Puddings of Sauternes and caramel custard and an interesting cheese plate are not unknown.

It has been suggested that The Havelock is a gastropub, but this is a step too far. It may have risen from the ashes but its approach to cuisine remains pub-with-food, which it does superbly well.