In the midst of some debate on when is a gastropub not a gastropub, The Headley is launched in a charming corner of Headley Common, a move that will bring delight to the area, and is particularly well-timed. Owned by Chef Proprietor Daniel Clifford, East Anglia's only 2 Michelin star chef, the Shaker-like interior and the kitchen's culinary ambitions are bringing the customers in droves.

The dinner menu sets out the stall rather like an election manifesto, and the pulse quickens as your eye runs over starters of broccoli and aged Stilton soup or pint of fresh prawns and garlic mayonnaise. Main courses of whole baked rainbow trout with flaked almonds and sautéed chicken with creamed leeks, mushroom and thyme sauce, leave little doubt about the sense of direction of this excellent restaurant.

The wine list goes back to 1999 with Dom Pérignon, or Amour de Deutz, but there is plenty of choice from more recent and affordable sources.