Take a rather run down pub in Baron?s Court, do it up with a fair bit of simple and straightforward style, stick all kinds of clocks and pictures of them on the walls, bring in a menu that is sensibly short but thoroughly tempting, containing a fair proportion of organic ingredients, and what is the result? Answer, The Idle Hour.

Already a successful concept in Barnes for owner Stephen Thorp, it has translated well to North of the River, and was surprisingly busy for a Tuesday evening when we visited, so much so that the sole member of staff was practically running up and down the stairs, as the kitchen is on the first floor.

However, he coped admirably under the circumstances, and we thoroughly enjoyed our meal, from the first courses of pan seared scallops with black pudding and pea puree and grilled English asparagus spears with butter and parmesan through to a wonderfully moist sticky toffee pudding with toffee and rum sauce to finish, taking in roasted organic lamb rump on a tabouleh salad with tzatziki and pan seared mahi mahi on crushed new potatoes with a pineapple and chilli salsa on the way through.

Everything was attractively presented and at reasonable prices that should make other more august establishments blush in shame, with a two course deal at only £14.50 from Sunday through to Thursday evenings, a real bargain for the quality, and half priced burgers on a Monday night - we noted one on the table next door, and it was a definite cut above the average.

We washed this all down with a bottle of organic, Sauvignon Blanc based, white from the South of France, from a fairly short, all organic wine list. Hopefully the locals will wake up to the fact that somewhere rather unusual, and definitely better than the average, has landed in their neighbourhood and give it the patronage that it deserves.