It looks like residents of the leafy purlieus of Notting Hill are being knocked out by this trendy addition to the ranks of restaurants and other places where they eat. The Ledbury brings a whole new world into this area of good restaurants, so enter to an overwhelming ovation from massive areas of expensive dark wood, compelling chandeliers and accoutrements.

Clearly this is a place that means business, an impression given further substance by the knowledge that in the kitchen Brett Graham, a winner of Young Chef of the Year titles world-wide, is firmly in charge. His style comes through in such considerations as Hereford snails in a mousseline of herbs to crisp chicken wings. Amongst other options look for the John Dory poached in brown butter or shoulder of Pyrenean milk fed lamb cooked for 24 hours with artichoke, fresh curd, wild garlic and dried olives. Desserts create a sensation and include caramelised banana galette and salted caramel, with a scoop of peanut ice cream brought to join it at the table.

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